SangrahaVernacular Centred
Design Foundation

Sangraha Vernacular Centred Design Foundation · Lucknow · Since 2015

Every stitch should pay the hand that makes it

We work with chikankari and ari artisans in and around Lucknow, most of them women working from home. Through design education, health care and fair work, we help craftspeople be recognised and paid for the excellence of their practice.

Social impact

What has changed for artisans

Around Lucknow there are about 2.5 lakh chikan artisans, roughly two lakh of them women. Most earn just ₹800 to ₹1,500 a month (about US$9 to $17). That is where our work begins.

27craftswomen in the first Sangraha design batch, 2015
3–4×reported rise in income after design training
35artisans who joined the Sab Tera work-from-home team
35families kept in work during the 2020 lockdown
“These women weren't even allowed to go out of their houses.”Dr Jaspal Kalra, President

Tabassum never went to school and was married at sixteen. She earned ₹1,200 to ₹2,000 a month (about US$14 to $23) and had almost given up embroidery, only passing work on to others. After the design programme she earned over ₹80,000 (about US$900) in six months from her own collections, sold at exhibitions and online.

Course-trained women now quote fair rates, travel to exhibitions with their own samples, and have a stronger say at home. The first batch designed collections on the tree of life, the jewellery of Awadh, day and night, and mehendi.

Recognition and reach

Seen, shown and honoured

Embroidered textile landscape by Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra, framed and lit, at the Art of India fair 2024

Recognition · 2024

Awarded for Innovation and Contribution in Textile Art

The Times of India honoured Sangraha at the Art of India fair in 2024 for innovation and contribution in textile art. The work shown, a large embroidered landscape of hills, water, birds and blooms, was embroidered by Sangraha artisans. It was conceptualised and drawn by Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra.

Museums Victoria, Melbourne · 2023

A field of wheat, stitched by many hands

This artwork, a sun over a ring of sky and a field of ripening wheat, was shown at Museums Victoria in Melbourne in 2023, in Sutr Santati: Then. Now. Next. It was the first textile exhibition to travel outside India that was conceived, curated and created by a team of Indian academics, designers, artists and artisans. Sangraha artisans embroidered it in jaali, phanda and shadow work. It was conceptualised and drawn by Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra.

Four Sangraha artisans holding up the embroidered wheat-field artworkClose-up of jaali leaves being embroidered on a hoopDr Jaspal Singh Kalra running a design session with artisans
Shabana Azmi looking at a framed white chikankari tree of life by Sangraha artisans

In good company

Shabana Azmi on Sangraha

“The innovation in terms of technique and exploration of jali in artworks is exceptional and needs to be shared and collaborated with the world.”

Actor and activist Shabana Azmi, studying a framed white chikankari tree of life by Sangraha artisans.

Why ₹1,300

13

The philosophy of Tera

As a young storekeeper at Sultanpur Lodhi, Guru Nanak was weighing out grain. When the count reached thirteen, tera in Punjabi, a word that also means yours, he kept repeating it: tera, tera, everything is Yours.

Many count thirteen as unlucky. For us it is a reminder that what we hold was never only ours. Our Sab Tera work grew from that idea, and every way of giving to Sangraha comes in units of ₹1,300.

Exhibitions and conversations

Paradigm of Oneness

A series of exhibitions and conversations hosted by the Foundation. The exhibitions draw on the bani of Guru Nanak and premiered at the Visual Arts Gallery, India Habitat Centre, New Delhi in November 2021, in collaboration with the Sikh Chamber of Commerce. Every work is credited to the Sangraha artisans who embroidered it, as its artists, and their names are stitched into the cloth.

Delhi edition · Premiere, 2021

Visual Arts Gallery, India Habitat Centre

Paradigm of Oneness entrance wall with framed embroideriesDr Jaspal Singh Kalra talking a visitor through an embroidered work
Chandigarh edition · February 2023

Government Museum and Art Gallery

Large embroidered tapestry with artisans' names stitched along its edgeArtisans, the Foundation team and guests at the Chandigarh openingA visitor looking at embroidered sunflowers and lotusesGuests walking through the gallery
Teri Sangat · on the 13th of every month

Conversations on the Paradigm of Oneness

Panel discussions curated by the Foundation, with speakers from around the world. Each one explores Oneness in spirituality, art, craft, professions, the environment, gender, faith, and social and economic life.

See all 10 Teri Sangat recordings
  1. ▶ Oneness of Art, Craft and AestheticsTeri Sangat 01 · 27 Oct 2021 Dr Alka Pande and Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra, moderated by Prof Nien Siao.
  2. ▶ Oneness as a Culture, and Honesty in MakingTeri Sangat 02 · 2 Nov 2021 Haroon Khalid and Kuljeet Singh, moderated by Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra.
  3. ▶ Experiences of Oneness through DocuseriesTeri Sangat 03 · Nov 2021 Amardeep Singh on "Allegory, A Tapestry of Guru Nanak's Travels", moderated by Prof Nien Siao.
  4. ▶ Oneness as an Expression of Baba NanakTeri Sangat 04 · 19 Nov 2021 Sonam Kalra, Samir Singh, Manisha Gera Baswani, Major Rupinder Singh Bedi and Dr Jaspal Singh Kalra.
  5. ▶ Art and Craft as an EquatorTeri Sangat 05 · 27 Nov 2021 Laila Tyabji, Jatin Bhatt, Kuljeet Singh and Dr Alka Pande, moderated by Prof Nien Siao.
  6. ▶ Oneness in ReverberationsTeri Sangat 06 · 38 min Rekha Surya, on music as a universal language, from her training under Begum Akhtar and Girija Devi.
  7. ▶ Oneness in CompassionTeri Sangat 07 · 46 min Mehru Jaffer and Vicky Bedi, on compassion as submission and as a family legacy.
  8. ▶ Oneness in Discovering SelfTeri Sangat 08 · 34 min Dr Juss Kaur, artist and educationist, on finding the answers within.
  9. ▶ Oneness through Gurbani SangeetTeri Sangat 09 · 55 min Bhai Baldeep Singh, a 13th-generation exponent of Gurbani Kirtan, on music as a unifier. Released for Baisakhi.
  10. ▶ Oneness in Musical RenditionsTeri Sangat 10 · 38 min Askari Naqvi, lawyer turned vocalist and Dastango, on taking devotional art to secular audiences.

Watch Teri Sangat recordings

Sab Tera initiatives

Tera, Tera: everything is Yours

Each programme carries the spirit of Tera: what we hold was never only ours, so it goes back to the artisans who make the work.

Training

Tera Gyan

Your knowledge · formerly Shilpi ke liye Gyan

A six-credit craft and art module that brings design thinking to practising artisans.

Training

Tera Hunar

Your skill · formerly Karigari aur Hunar ki Pathshala

Mentoring, motivation and skills guidance for artisans in the Sab Tera team.

Livelihood

Tera Rizak

Your livelihood

A skill cannot feed a family until it finds a buyer. Tera Rizak pays trained artisans a steady livelihood wage through that gap, so no one has to leave the craft just to survive. Those it carries become artisan leaders, who now run their own teams and pass on work, wages and training.

Medical

Tera Dekhbhal

Your care · formerly Dekhbhal

Regular health check-ups and vaccination drives for artisans and their families.

Experience

Tera Dera

Your dwelling · the Craft Experience Centre

A working studio in Lucknow where visitors meet artisans and see chikankari made by hand.

Activities

Curation, exhibitions, conversations, baithaks and gifting

Paradigm of Oneness exhibitions and monthly conversations, a pilot collaboration with the artist Aditya Chintapalli, a manji weaving design intervention in Punjab with the Ambuja Foundation, craft installations such as A Raag of Renewal at ROWA, exhibitions like the Resurgence Series, cultural baithaks with daastangoi such as Daastaan-e-Guru Nanak, and corporate and festival gifting made by artisans. See activities

2020

Past project · Covid relief

Sab Tera and Dil ka Uphaar

When the lockdown stopped all work, chikankari and ari artisans earning under a dollar a day lost their income overnight. Team members gave from their own resources, and artisans began embroidering masks so the families with the least could keep earning.

Through Dil ka Uphaar, 30 embroiderer families and 5 tailor families received steady orders, and 35 new artisans joined a work-from-home team with mentoring and skill support.

Tera, tera

Everything is Yours

Every gift to the Foundation comes in units of ₹1,300, thirteen hundred, in the spirit of Guru Nanak's tera. What you give was always theirs.